Guides › How to dry 3D printing filament
How to dry 3D printing filament
Most filaments absorb water from the air. Wet filament causes popping, stringing, rough surfaces and weak parts. Drying fixes it completely in most cases.
Is my filament wet?
- Crackling or popping sounds from the nozzle, or visible steam
- Stringing that doesn't improve with retraction tuning
- Bubbly, rough or matte surfaces on a normally glossy filament
- Brittle filament that snaps when bent (common with old PLA)
Drying temperatures and times
| Material | Temperature | Time |
|---|---|---|
| PLA | 45–50 °C | 4–6 h |
| PETG | 60–65 °C | 4–6 h |
| ABS / ASA | 60–80 °C | 2–6 h |
| TPU | 45–55 °C | 4–8 h |
| Nylon | 70–80 °C | 8–12 h |
| PC | 70–80 °C | 6–8 h |
| PVA | 45–55 °C | 6–10 h |
Methods compared
Filament dryer: purpose-built, safe and lets you print while drying. Most reach 55–70 °C; check the maximum if you print nylon. Oven: fast and hot enough for anything, but many ovens overshoot at low settings — verify with a thermometer and never leave it unattended. Food dehydrator: cheap and gentle, good for PLA, PETG and TPU. Printer bed with a box over it: works in a pinch for PLA.
Keep it dry
Store spools in airtight boxes or bags with silica gel and a cheap hygrometer. Keep humidity below about 20% for nylon and TPU and below 40% for PLA and PETG. Recharge silica gel by baking it when its indicator changes colour.
Recommended gear
- Filament dryer — Dries while you print. Check max temperature (≥70 °C) if you print nylon.
- Airtight dry box + silica gel — Cheap way to keep dried spools dry; add a hygrometer.
- Mini hygrometers — Know the humidity inside your storage box.
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